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Printing rules

There are certain rules you need to follow to have a perfect print. This post will be updated over time as we and users find the rules.

- Printing a pyramid will cause layering. You can also word this differently saying that when you print a wall at an angle, the side of the wall that faces away from the build plate will have a rough surface. Examples of this would be the top of a head and of course a pyramid.

- Printing a boat hull will give you a smooth surface. Another way of saying it is that when you print a wall at an angle, the side that faces the build plate will be the smooth side. An example other than a boat hull is the bottom of a head.

- When printing the boat hull using continuous printing you need to make a hole in the bottom for the resin to flow through. The speed of the print will determine how much resin is needed to flow through. We don't currently have the numbers for hole size vs speed.

- When you print using continuous printing you will need to change to standard speed and make the parts solid for flat surfaces. Rounded surfaces, e.g. top of a head, will also look better using standard speed rather than with continuous.

- Hollowing in Gizmetor does 2D hollowing, not true 3D hollowing. If you hollow a flat surface, nothing will be printed. It will be an open area. This is great for letting the resin flow out. You can override the layer to make it solid or you can use MeshMixer to hollow.

- When printing flat surfaces you will need to let the resin rest longer to cool down and also level out. The bigger the surface, the more cooling you will need and the longer wait times you need to put in, but you will need shorter exposure times. So it all balances out.


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